At my house we celebrate four major holidays at this time of year: Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year's and the opening of Dungeness crab season. I am willing to concede the possibility that God has made a more perfect food, but I haven't come across it yet.

Here's a typical Dungeness Day menu: Crab. White wine. Maybe a green salad afterward and, if we're feeling particularly indulgent, something like a lemon curd tart to finish.

But none of those other things is necessary. Cold cracked crab by itself, as much as you can eat, is extravagance defined.

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