CASCO BAY, Maine — Hattie Train uttered her first word while sitting atop the bar at one of Portland’s funky, wharfside watering holes, where someone had temporarily plunked her diapered bottom down, more than two decades ago.

Looking up at a larger-than-life size, red, taxidermied crustacean mounted on the wall,  Hattie pointed a chubby finger and uttered a toddler’s approximation of “lobster.”

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