Which kind of salmon do you like best -- wild Alaska sockeye or farmed Atlantic?

In an unscientific face-off, the Daily News test kitchen recently pitted the two varieties against each other. The salmon, frozen, were both Kirkland products from Costco: Wild Alaska Sockeye Salmon ($26.99) and Farmed Atlantic Salmon ($19.79). The latter was actually from Chile, which, last we looked, was on the Pacific Ocean, but its DNA is of the Atlantic variety. Both bags held three pounds of individually wrapped filets.

Samples of roughly equivalent size were put in Ziploc bags marked with the names of Alaska towns like Newtok and Kobuk. An associate who did not otherwise participate in the exercise did this in a closed room and noted which bags held which kind of salmon. That information was put into an envelope and sealed. Then the bags were returned to me in three paired sets. Each set included one bag with Atlantic/Chilean fish, one with Alaska product.

I had my suspicions about which was which; some of the bagged salmon had skin and some didn't, for instance, and the color was notably different. But I could not say with absolute journalistic certainty that the Tununak bag, for instance, contained one or the other.

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